What Is an Argyle Sweater?

An argyle sweater is a shirt that showcases the argyle pattern. It generally has a square or rectangular box on the front, which showcases an even-length pattern of diagonal checkers. This pattern is called the argyle design. The argyle design has fluctuated in popularity for centuries, though it is generally dubbed a classic garment.

The word argyle is an alternate spelling of the word Argyll, which is a region of Scotland. Scotland is the first region where inhabitants wore the argyle design, so the name of the pattern bears its name. The argyle design was first introduced in the 16th or 17th century. It was worn by members of the Scottish military, primarily on their feet and legs. In modern times, both argyle socks and argyle sweaters remain staples of a classic or preppy wardrobe.

The argyle design became fashionable throughout the rest of Europe — primarily England — after the first world war. Sweaters soon featured the design. Though the argyle sweater hasn't quite gone out of style since the first half of the 20th century, it did see popularity resurgences in the 1950s and 1980s. Near the end of the 1990s, it was assumed by fashion gurus that argyle was here to stay.

The argyle sweater comes in many forms. The first ones were knitted of wool, though they are now also woven with cotton or a mixture of synthetic fibers. The first versions were quite thick. They were paired with collared shirts, to avoid itching, and worn by men.

Women soon began wearing the same type of sweater, and the most common sweater materials began to change. A woman could wear a lighter, breezier argyle sweater without an undershirt. As the sweaters became thinner, they could be tucked in. Like most sweaters, however, the argyle sweater is typically kept untucked, so as not to disrupt its distinctive design.

This sweater may be pulled over the head, or zipped, or buttoned up front. These types of sweaters with fastenings in front are generally referred to as argyle cardigans. The argyle sweater vest, which is essentially a sleeveless argyle sweater, also is popular.

The argyle design resembles a checkerboard set at a diagonal. The diamonds are all equal in length, and solid or dotted lines run through the center of each row. The sweater may be any combination of colors.

The word "argyle" can be used to either refer to an entire pattern or an individual element of the design. The singular elements of the diagonal pattern are called diamonds or lozenges. Most argyle patterns contain overlapping motifs, which create a three-dimensional effect. There is also often an overlaid pattern of diagonal lines intersecting over solid diamonds.

The argyle sweater vest has a chronicled legacy. The pattern is derived from the tartan of Clan Campbell of Argyll in Western Scotland. Tartans are typically called "plaid" in North America and are the layered, patterned cloths historically used to identify Scottish clans. Modern argyle patterns were derived from these traditional Scottish designs. The earliest known argyle dates back to the 17th century. The argyle design may have pre-medieval origins but often finds new life in modern fashions.

Compared to the centuries-old term "argyll," the word "sweater" has a much newer origin. "Sweater" first appeared in the Oxford dictionary in 1882. The term was adopted to describe the athletic tops worn by rowers to facilitate sweating and losing weight. Some fashion-forward thinkers of the era experimented with the patterns and sleeve lengths of the popular workout gear. By 1907, a Michigan football team officially added proper sweater vests to their uniform. What started as exercise wear quickly became a new fashion item.

The use of argyle patterns on sweater vests is a culmination of fashion evolution over the ages. Argyle clothing has been popular for many reasons over the years.

Argyle knitwear gained popularity in the postmodern era just after World War I. Pringle of Scotland was the first fashion house that widely released argyle clothing. This clothing brand holds a royal warrant as manufacturers of knitted garments and is one of the world's oldest continually operating fashion companies. Its work became popular and in demand due to its use by the Duke of Windsor for golf clothing. He used the designs for his athletic jerseys and the long socks needed to accompany the plus-fours trousers of the day.

There are several other men known for wearing argyle and increasing its cultural popularity. Both President Woodrow Wilson and President Herbert Hoover famously wore sweater vests. Payne Stewart was a golfer who won the U.S. Open in 1991 and 1999 and the PGA Championship in 1989. He was also easily recognized for his argyle socks, knickerbockers, and colorful tams. By the 1990s, television often used argyle to indicate preppy dressers. The Carlton Banks character on "The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air" is a notable model of this style.

Male culture may have first ushered in the patterns at the start of the century, but adoption into female fashion trends gave argyle new possibilities. Katherine Hepburn wore argyle in the feature film "Pat and Mike" in 1952 and helped popularize the pattern in trending fashions. Fashion critics of the day noted how her wardrobe combined the traditionally masculine argyle sweater with the classically feminine black skirt to challenge gender lines.

There have been several resurgences of argyle led by contemporary actresses. Argyle was featured prominently in Alicia Silverstone's wardrobe in the '90s movie "Clueless." Throughout the movie, her character, Cher, wore a variety of argyle skirts, jackets, and socks. Cher's style was indicative of the widespread use of argyle in trendy looks. Such media adoption brought the look into mainstream fashion. It has since become common to combine subtle patterns and fabrics such as printed silk with more masculine patterns and textures such as merino argyle.

The global popularity of argyle rose again due to its use in Korean pop music. The use of argyle in K-pop costumes was inspired by the sweater vests of traditional South Korean school uniforms. Preppy sweater vests have now become a staple for boy bands like BTS.

The 2020s started with a series of fashion lines dominated by sweater vests. This resurgence has been on exhibition in runway collections from Prada, Tom Ford, Gucci, Givenchy, and many others. Major design houses and innumerable fashion influencers have combined sweater vests into various contemporary and experimental combinations.

Flamboyant color combinations now have a place in sweater vests for various reasons. New holiday traditions have allowed for even more daring argyle styles. The rise of Ugly Sweater Parties means there is room to wear loud and stylishly irreverent sweaters. Avant-garde designers now often make experimental argyles with clashing colors and new iterations of the old diamond overlays.