Sometimes called a bias finish, the Hong Kong finish is a style of hemming a garment that is considered to be easily accomplished, and leaves behind nothing in the way of bumps or bulges around the hem line. Here is some information about how the Honk Kong finish works, and why so many people prefer this approach to hemming.
The Hong Kong finish is considered to be an ideal solution for any garment that is unlined. The reason for this is that, unlike some other hemming techniques, the Hong Kong finish tends to leave a very flat hem line, with no raised areas. This is accomplished by leaving the raw end of the material exposed, rather than folding it around or under the bias that is used for the hem. The lack of another layer of fabric as part of the hem helps ensure that the front side of the work appears to be perfectly flat. Achieving a flat hem is especially important with lightweight fabrics. Silks, light cotton blends and rayon are some examples of light material that look better with a Hong Kong finish to the hem.
To achieve a Hong Kong finish, the bias tape is put into place for the hem, and the material is then folded over the bias. Using an iron at this point to crease the anticipated hem may help to hold the bias in place and keep the hem straight when sewing by hand. When using a machine, the experienced sewer can simply place the bias tape, fold the material over to create the hem and then stitch the hem into place. If desired, the raw edge that is left exposed on the underside of the garment can be trimmed closer to the bias with scissors.
Many people, especially those who enjoy home sewing projects, employ the Hong Kong finish regularly. Part of the attraction is that this is the sort of hemming technique that can be used with equal ease and skill with both hand sewing and machine sewing. A second advantage to the Honk Kong finish is that having only one fold to do on the fabric makes it much easier to maintain a straight hem. Last, the Hong Kong finish is ideal for making quick repairs to casual clothing. In fact, the ease of the technique is such that adults often will teach children this method, since just about anyone can create credible hem using the Hong Kong finish.
